Long before menswear was preceded by a hashtag, fire alphets took social
media by storm, or Four Pins was a gleam in anyone's eye, men cared a lot about
their clothes. At least fops, dandies, and macaronis — historians' terms for
different tribes of fashion-focused men — certainly did.
A name that's still synonymous with dandyism is Beau Brummel, the
19th-century British gentleman of society who spent a mere five hours putting
together his outfit every day. Brummel, explains Valerie Steele, director and
chief curator at the Museum at FIT, "was known for wearing very simple navy
jackets; really impeccable, clean white linen; a carefully tied cravat — things
like that, but very much focusing on tailoring, cleanliness, simplicity, which
is really the beginning of the new movement in menswear away from decoration and
color and adornment and toward sobriety and a focus on tailoring and fine
material. So the rise of the dandy is really associated with the rise of the
gentleman and is sometimes called the ‘great masculine renunciation’ of giving
up fancy clothes." Cartoonists like George Cruikshank loved nothing more than to
poke fun at the burgeoning fashion movement, "depicting [dandies] being laced
into corsetry so tight they fainted."
While England, Brummel's home turf, was initially where the dandy came into
being, the style soon spread to France, with poet Charles Baudelaire numbering
among the many wearers of the look. "With Baudelaire, you see the beginning of
the idea of black as being associated with what the dandies are wearing,"
explains Steele. "Brummel wasn’t wearing black clothes, but Baudelaire was
wearing all black and was very much about a less-is-more look, a new
aristocratic style that was very sober and refined as opposed to being highly
decorative. It wasn’t about being an old-style aristocrat, but a new kind of
aristocracy of the mind." For Baudelaire and his ilk, the goal was to be "not an
old-school aristocrat but also not a money-grubbing bourgeois — in simpler
terms, the equivalent of a hipster now. It had nothing whatsoever to do with
being over-dressed or fancifully dressed, but, on the contrary, a very kind of
minimal and austere look. And an attitude of coolness or hipness."
Steele cites the writer Jules Amédée Barbey d’Aurevilly, who defined the
style in 1859, writing “the dandy is the black prince of elegance ...
indifferent to the horse he mounts, to the women that he greets, to the man that
he approaches, and to whom he stares for a moment before acknowledging him and
wearing written on his forehead in English this insolent inscription ‘what is
there in common between you and me?’" (Steele points out that since this was a
French writer, the reference to an English inscription indicates snobbery.)
There is, she says, "this idea that the dandy is distinguishing himself from
other people. There’s this kind of arrogance, boredom, and the idea that he’s
really only interested in judging himself, and he doesn’t admit that anyone has
the right to judge him."
As the dandy evolved, notables like Oscar Wilde became associated with the
style. "At first he was more foppish with his aesthetic style," Steele notes,
with "pseudo-18th-century breeches and long hair and ruffled collars, but then
he gives all that up and goes into a much more hypermasculine [mode], with a
dark suit. That’s where the dandy becomes associated with homosexuality. The
idea that it’s a masquerade of masculinity but it’s done just a little bit too
well. The dandy [became] a very important queer archetype, but that really
emerges in Oscar Wilde’s era, around the late 19th century."
Today plenty of men own up to considering themselves modern-day dandies, but
the concept goes far beyond just being well-dressed. Rather, it's an ethos of
self-presentation. "I've always loved the term," says Chris Benz, the creative
director of Bill Blass. "When you want to feel a little outrageous, and menswear
can be a little more subtle. It's an easy platform to just be like, 'Oh, I'm
doing a little dandy moment.'" Street-style star Nick Wooster is a tad more
nonchalant, saying, "My style is 'whatever's closest.' I just get dressed; I
can't describe it. Peaky Blinders meets Miss Selfridge. A little masculine and a
little feminine. I think that's an okay place to be." And Waris Ahluwalia, the
jewelry designer who's known for his louche take on the look — think a shirt
unbuttoned well past the breastbone — sums up the appeal of the lifestyle as
follows: "The hope is that if one looks like a gentleman, one may be inclined to
behave like a gentleman."
Today the notion of men dressing well has become increasingly disentangled
from sexuality. Johnny Weir, with his elaborate headgear, takes the dandy look
to decorative, Liberace-esque extremes, but Kanye West also has dandy
influences, favoring dramatic, Baudelaire-worthy black cape coats, crisp
monochrome white getups, and, of course, the occasional Céline blouse. As for
whether it takes him a Brummel-esque five hours to get ready, only his mirror
knows for sure.